Civil unrest

Positive is usually the watchword of this blog, but I want to capture my Chilean Adventures in full, so I'm afraid this post is going to focus on one of its more ugly sides.

Caveat out of the way, I can tell you that we have spent the last week in the centre of a whirlwind of civil disturbances. As I write, the click of the keyboard is accompanied by the din of saucepans being banged together outside. This is the latest in a string of protests against a hydroelectricity project in Patagonia that will see five mega dams built in one of the most unspoilt regions of the country, billed as essential fuel for a country poised to enter 'developed nation' status very soon.

On Monday night, I exited the Metro station to the shock of having my nose burned with tear gas. Thursday, after a student protest, I walked home to find traffic lights snapped in two. And on Friday, in the biggest of the demonstrations so far, thousands of protesters marched chanting down our road, before a small minority tipped over a glass recycling bin to arm themselves ready to take aim at the police.

The location of our building is the equivalent of being a few blocks away from the Houses of Parliament in London, so it is not surprising that we are seeing so much action. That said, the sheer number of both protesters and demonstrations is not something we are accustomed to in the UK. Estimates for Friday were 30,000 people and more civil action is planned over the coming days.

Before anyone begins to worry, we are fine. By and large, the demonstrations are peaceful; some vandalism happens, but the scenes are little worse than Birmingham's Broad Street on a Saturday night. In fact, the protesters are infinitely better-mannered. Tear gas and water cannons are used, because the police are quick to disperse people at the merest hint of trouble. While staying inside may be the best option, it's interesting to witness a nation so vocal and active in expressing itself, quite a contrast to the 'keep calm and carry on' culture I've come from.

In case you want to know more:

• I Love Chile, HidroAysén protests: view from the ground - Santiago, 14/05/11

New heroes

One of the most surprising things about coming to a new country for me, has been discovering people I never knew existed. I don't mean making new friends or learning about historical figures; I mean stumbling upon seriously important and influential people who I hadn't heard the slightest hint of before setting foot in Chile.

Being a self-confessed feminist, I am naturally impressed by strong, successful and aspirational women. Since arriving here, I have discovered two such women who quickly turned into new heroes for me, and both of whom I'm dismayed are not better known outside of these shores. They are Michelle Bachelet and Isabel Allende.

I will return to Allende in my next post, as I recently finished reading her seminal novel 'The House of the Spirits. For now, I want to turn my attentions to Bachelet.

Michelle Bachelet
Photo by Ricardo Stuckert
(Agencia Brasil 1) via Wikimedia
Commons

Michelle Bachelet is Chile's first ever female president, holding the post from March 2006 - March 2010 (see, I bet you didn't know that). She took office with an unprecedented absolute majority in both houses of congress and left with a seriously high 86% approval rating from the populace. Popular woman.

Gender equality was high on her agenda and she appointed a never-seen-before 50/50 cabinet of men and women. Her policies included free daycare for poor children to help women back into work and economic independence and successfully securing free availability of the morning-after pill to all women over 14 (in a country where abortion is illegal...)

Last year, after her presidential term finished, Bachelet was appointed Executive Director of a new international task force on gender equality - UN Women. The body is doing a crucially important job; to improve women's leadership and economic empowerment, to end violence against women, particularly in warfare, and in focusing countries around the world on prioritising gender equality.

Before her presidency, Bachelet was Chile's first female defence minister. Upon entering politics (she had initially trained and worked as a paediatrician) she took herself off to study military strategy. In her personal life, she is a divorced mother of three and an agnostic (did I mention Chile is a very Catholic country?)

But above and beyond all of these phenomenal achievements, for which I am filled with admiration, what makes here even more amazing in my eyes, is that she was imprisoned and tortured under the military dictatorship of General Pinochet. This is what makes her, for me, a shining example of what women can achieve.

In writing this post, I am indebted to the following:

1. Wikipedia, Michelle Bachelet (25/04/11)
2. The Guardian, UN Women's head Michelle Bachelet: A new superhero? (22/04/11)
3. The Guardian, Michelle Bachelet (08/03/11)
4. The Guardian, The Bachelet factor: the cultural legacy of Chile's first female president (13/12/09)

A time of amazing opportunities

I was reflecting this morning on some of the amazing things I've done since I arrived here in Chile. And it occurred to me that not only am I on an incredible adventure in an incredible country, but that I am having opportunities to experience some of the most normal things in an amazing way.

Take for instance, last Friday's royal wedding. As previously expressed, I'm not particularly a royalist, and was becoming a little tired of being constantly asked for my opinion on the nuptials as the resident Brit. However, I'd geared myself up to watch the ceremony comfortably curled up on the sofa in my pyjamas. I had to watch it for the dress at least!

That all changed though, when late on Thursday afternoon, an email came through to me at the I Love Chile office inviting us to cover a celebratory breakfast at the British Ambassador's house here in Santiago.

Pushing aside my qualms over posh networking events, where - gasp - I actually have to talk to people I don't know, I decided to attend. Boy am I glad I did.

I arrived at the Ambassador's residence in the exclusive neighbourhood of El Golf just before 7am, in time to see Kate Middleton enter Westminster Abbey and the dress revealed. Those invited were served tea in china cups (so very British) before settling down in front of a big screen to watch the event. The audience, made-up of various members of the British-Chilean community, sat attentively, lapping up the lashings of pomp and circumstance that reminded us all of home. Despite feeling weepy at various points (not least Jerusalem - if anything stirs-up a mixture of homesickness and patriotism in me it's that hymn), I managed to hold myself together!

Watching the wedding at the British Ambassador's
residence

Following the ceremony, we were served, what else, but a nice slice of cake. The Ambassador then gave a short speech, highlighting how this was the start of a period of celebration for the UK - with the Queen's Diamond Jubilee and the Olympic Games both coming up next year. I felt truly connected to home, regardless of the distance.

For me, this was a truly unforgettable morning. I don't think I would have ever had the opportunity to experience something like that if I had been at home; somehow, by being here, opportunities are magnified. Maybe because I only have 11 months here I am compelled to grab everything that's offered and truly savour every experience. Maybe because I am away, I have a new perspective. Either way, certain things that would otherwise be trivial, become spectacular.